Mattawa to Ottawa

My last stretch was the great Ottawa River, engine of modern Canada’s economy since Samuel De Champlain traversed it in the 1600s; home to many tribes of Algonquin before that.

The great rapids of the river had all been dammed over, leaving an endless series of Reservoirs above massive hydropower plants.

As I headed Southeast, the beauty was interrupted by the sound of traffic from the Trans-Canada Highway hugging the shore and boaters of all varieties leaving wakes. The greatest scare I had the entire trip was from heat exhaustion just outside Portage Du Fort, a tiny village under the great Chenaux Dam. I spent an afternoon cooling off with a shake and poutine from Murf’s Chip Stand.

Heading through Ottawa, I’d fallen into a sullen depression. Frankly, I’d thought Canadians would be more reverent of the nature saturating their country. Instead, I passed through what was the Canadian equivalent of Lake Minnetonka: a great wonder of nature covered with money, parceled off with McMansions, crawling with yachts and jet skis.

As I sulked, nature kept reaching out with splendid color. And the people I encountered were extraordinarily generous. A surly Quebecois farmer said barely a word as he let me through his property to a portage and then surprised me with a glass of cold water. An old mechanic confronted me with a big smile and bowl of ice cream as I trespassed on his neighbor’s property.

September 1-6, 2023

Route Map - Mattawa to Ottawa