Great Shipping Channels & Bad Decisions
I focused fully on making Montreal in a Month. The desire to be fully alone in the wilderness, which I’d promised Paul but failed, was overwhelming. The next month of kayaking alone 30 miles a day would take a toll on my body and my sanity.
Out of Grand Marais’s channel, the waves stayed big for the rest of the day. But they were regular and long, allowing me to flow up one side and drop down the other.
I made the 53 miles between Grand Marais and Whitefish Point in two days. While having dinner on the point, I decided to make the crossing to a Canadian island. I reasoned it’d save me a day not having to kayak around Whitefish Bay. I’d also avoid all the fucking speedboats I saw dancing down Michigan’s shoreline.
3 miles into the crossing, I felt surrounded by tankers. As slowly as they lumber, they snuck up on me. I tried to cypher out their lane but they pivoted and took two routes. It became darker than I expected. Sunset had marched forward over the summer. I’d need my headlamp to see and strobe to be seen.
I paused for an oncoming freighter a mile or so away and an errant wave crept up and slapped my boat hard, pushing me into the water. In a panic, I threw out a low brace and sculled for my life. With water up past my elbow and body fully extended, I clenched my core and desperately pulled the boat underneath me just before I lost purchase with the paddle. The tanker came so close I swore the Canadian captain would recognize my stupidity as distinctly American and report me for an illegally crossing.
It was a slog down Saint Marys river. The border agents in Sault St Marie didn’t know what to ask me. “What’s your destination?” “Montreal.” “How are you getting there?” “You’re looking at it.” “Kayak? You ever done this sort of thing before?” “Nope.” “How long will it take you to reach your final destination?” “Depends on the weather.” “Are you employed with health insurance?” “Yep.” “But you’ve never done anything like this before?” “No.” “Do you have life insurance?” “…Nope.”
I’d like to say I was getting wiser but instead was acting more cavalier. I shot like an arrow surfing waves down St. Joseph’s Channel, waving and laughing at campers on shore like I was riding the bomb in Dr Strangelove. As I continued on the North Channel, I chanced a 5-mile open water crossing to Serpent island. The wind deepened and a thunderhead formed on the Northern horizon. Thrill turned to fear and I prayed to God. NOAA answered instead, insisting the storm would stay North. Luckily, this time they were right.
August 13-21, 2023
Route Map - Grand Marais to Lake Huron
Route Map - Western Georgian Bay
